MUMBAI HERITAGE: Things you wanted to know but were too embarrassed to ask

                    

         It was a windy January evening this year and we were on our bicycles taking a “Heritage” tour of old buildings in “Fort” area of southern Mumbai. Mumbai is my home town and “The Fort” my favourite hangout place.

         “And here we are in front of one more example of Indo-Saracenic Architeture!”,announced our knowledgeable guide in his stylised diction. And this introduction he had to repeat quite a number of times till late that evening. 

         When we broke for late dinner, all wanted to know from me what this Indo-Saracenic style is.  

         Here are a few glimpses into this style of architecture and a few tips to identify the buildings when you take a guest or your family or friends to sight-seeing tour of this conserved district of Mumbai.

HISTORY

         “Saracen” was a term used in Europe until the 19th century referring to Muslim and Arabic-speaking people and regions of the Middle East and North Africa. 

         Indo-Saracenic is also known as Indo-Gothic style. It was developed by imitating parts of Rajasthani, Mughal and Maratha architecture in India and Gothic revival and Neo-Classical styles in Europe.

        These designs were produced by the British colonial government through their architects who astutely incorporated asian exoticism in their designs while implementing their own engineering innovations to support such elaborate construction in public, private and government-owned buildings. 

        Public and Government buildings were often rendered on an intentionally grand scale, reflecting and promoting a notion of an unassailable and invincible British Empire built conforming to Indian standards. Indigenous British structural engineering standards of the 1800s were used for construction. Materials used were typically iron, steel and poured concrete. This style was ably supported by creative imagination of skilled artisans of various disciplines of those times. 

        Popularity of Indo-Saracenic style flourished for a span of some 30-years.

 

IDENTITY

        Here are 11 pointers which can be of help when you take a tour of my beloved Mumbai:

• Onion-shaped domes (“TheTaj Mahal Hotel” above) and bowl-shaped domes (erstwhile Prince of Wales Museum) 

• Chhajjahs (window-sheds),overhanging eaves and cornices often supported by conspicuous brackets (Gateway of India, Maharashtra Police Head Quarters)

• Pointed arches ( Gateway of India), Cusped arches, or Scalloped arches (all in CSMT station )

• Horseshoe arches, in fact characteristic of Islamic Spain or North Africa, but often used with contrasting colours of voussoirs (wedge-shaped stones round an arch), especially red and white (2nd storey); another feature more typical of North Africa and Spain (all in CSMT Station and Maharashtra Police HQ )

• Domed chhatri kiosks on the roofline (MCGM Head Office, GPO and Majestic Hotel)

• Pinnacles, Towers and Minarates (all in CSMT Station)

• Harem windows (“TheTaj Mahal Hotel” and “Amdar Niwas”)

• Open pavilions (Top of MCGM HO)

• Jalis or openwork screens and Mashrabiya or jharokha-style screened windows (2nd storey of Prince of Wales Museum)

• Char Chala roofs of Bengal (Porch of Prince of Wales Museum)

UTILITY

        You will be surprised to find almost all structures built in Indo-Saracenic style and in British Raj times are still in use, no doubt with some difficulties in running modern-day services like data, telephony, power and HVAC. But then, they were built to last centuries as they were symbol of supremacy of British Empire. Today we need to preserve them as a symbol of craftsmanship of native Indian artisans.

        Mumbai was built by many business communities in varied styles but with the same spirit : Progress.

        I will be very happy to know from you about treasures of craftsmanship hidden in nooks and corners of Mumbai.